Friday, December 29, 2006

Restaurant Review: Viva Goa






Viva Goa ia a long-standing restaurant originally for locals as it is open all year round.
A few nights ago Veda (an English friend) and I ventured forth and this is our experience.

Both versions are true:

A quaint roadside bistro serving fine seafood, meats and a full bar.
A noisy trashed out hellhole serving rotten fish and rancid meat with a full bar of bad Indian hooch.

The service is excellent with the anticipatory staff catering to your every whim.
Desperate poverty stricken runners who after a nice tip will drop all other customers and ask you for a 12th time "another beer, Sir?”

The efficient staff takes your order after recommending some of the chef’s famous dishes.
The complete Idiot of a waiter who after 5 times still cant remember your order and insists on my need for the prawns that are probably 2 weeks old and stored in a refrigerator that has about 3 hours of power a day.

After several local micro-brew beers we settle on chili fry squid, vegetable makanwala, palak paneer, jeera rice, a butter nan and a garlic nan.
After 3 beers from a local distillery that most likely uses contaminated water and extensive worker urine we muster up the courage to order.

The open seating introduces us to several pleasant European travelers.
The open seating burdens us with 2 large British subjects who insist on filling us in on their love for soccer and themselves, one of them being his wife who is feigning complete deafness and I think we should do the same.

Then the food arrives...
The chili fry squid looks fabulous. Succulent, perfectly cooked squids in a dark, leafy sauce that tastes like a something indescribable. The veggie makanwala is a jumble of well-cooked onions, carrots, and green beans in a creamy tomato base with a hint of spice and slightly sweet complexion. The palak paneer is a fresh mix of ground spinach with a perfectly textured paneer, a slight hotness that is subtle yet expressive. The Jeera rice is cumin seeded, slightly fried rice with finely separated grains. The nans are perfectly cooked in an obviously traditional tandoor with a perfect crispness and a slightly doughy refrain. All together the symphony of tastes and sensations make we wish I was nowhere else on earth.

Thrown at us the dishes spill over on to the already filthy table, the still wet with typhoid water empty plates and utensils are also seemingly dropped from the sky. First up was the mysterious chili fry, which contains unknown leafs and onion peels and is so overcooked that I am happily sure there is nothing living in it. The Veggie whatever is itself a halloween movie with cooked to oblivion "things" that I must assume are vegetables, the decidedly scary oil has risen to the top and the bottom and middle also, in fact this dish would power a northern Californian’s bio-diesel vehicle for several months...The taste? Who knows as I am just trying to hold it down before I drown. And now to the palak paneer, green it is no doubt. Spinach? Good question. I am assuming it is. The paneer is a very well textured (lets say tough) cube that most likely was holding the door open just a few minutes ago. The jeera rice has many specks of cumin and other unknown ingredients which each grain in its separate world most likely from it being dropped on the floor and then swept up back onto the plate before arriving sheepishly onto our table. The nans arrived burnt on the edges as if cooked with butane lighter. Edible, yes I guess one could optimistically say that.

With the meal over, I venture into the kitchen to meet the chefs. They are a well-organized team of professionals with years of training and hygienic intentions. I thank them and bid them adieu fondly dreaming of my next visit.

With the meal endured I venture into the kitchen to see who is responsible for this nightmare. I find 6 guys in a fluorescently dimmed small cell of a non-ventilated pit of a disgusting room where they most likely sleep and live for months at a time. I look around gagging on the filth and look forward to what my stomach will be saying shortly. A last look at the rest rooms finds me doubled over in prayer. As I retched I noticed that yes, I was pointing towards Mecca.

Saturday, December 23, 2006

hi

So the uploading is on hold till i find a reliable internet place...spent 1 hour yesterday trying...
today I am going to Ashvem...we pronounce it Aushvem cause of the israeli vibe there. There are also alot of russians there..they dress the hippie part but somehow i dont think the 60's peace and love revolution made it to moscow...but its nice having people around that are paler then me...

I apologize for the lack of exciting and riveting blog that you all are expecting from me...
its coming.....
xoo

just some pics..

Not much to say today except I was almost run over by a cow and a car..and a pig.
having trouble uploading pics...if you want them just email me and ill send them...

XO

Monday, December 18, 2006

what day is it??

I have no idea..
I have been driving around alot on my motorcycle..
Hanging around the beach and getting tan...when i find a decnt internet place ill upload some pictures...
India may really suck but its also the best place on earth...
It is simple here and it feels good day to day...
xooo

Wednesday, December 13, 2006

day...dont know...

ahh relaxing...getting into the rhythms of goa…wake up around 5:30am as the locals, dogs and birds star to stir….then I rest a bit till 7 and get out of bed..Open the house up and put the coffee on..Salvador then comes over and today I made fruit salad and we sat and laughed a bit and now its 10 and I am gonna go out to the internet place to post this and then go shopping for muesli, curd and a few things….then to the beach for a swim and lunch at a beach shack…usually fish curry and rice with a fresh lime soda…then back to the house for a get out of the sun reading and maybe a nap…

then we shall see….im already losing track of which day it is…

Day 6 ish…



Last night sal and Karar and I went to club cubana…up high on a hill a converted house is now a expensive night club…one of Sals horde of women is a teaching brazilian dancing there once a week and we are on the guest list..but….we must dance in exchange..I hate samba!!!!! So we got a bit drunk and I danced badly and then we all got on our motorcycles and drove home…..CHECKPOINT!!!! yes a police checkpoint…..Sal was first…we of course drove around them ignoring there pleas to STOP!!! Well its kind of a charade at these extortion stops…they ask for papers, no matter what papers you have its not the right papers…if they ask for the ppc paper and you have it then they want to noc document..they grab the keys and get all nasty like…then the negotiating begins they threaten to take the bike.. then they ask for the fine of 1000 ruppee’s ($22) after endless haggling sal pays 500 …sucker…the standard fee is 100….some people go throught all the hassle of getting every paper you might need but the trick is to put 100 in each pocket and the rest in a hidden pocket and say this is all you have and in a emergencey pull out the other 100…

But if the cops are drunk and in a foul mood then you’re a bit fucked….

Monday, December 11, 2006

day ..whatever...











Here in Goa, India...got a cute little house with a cute little kitchen 50 yards from the beach in a touristy part but on the nicest area to swim...nice body surfing waves and easy beach shack eating.. its quieter here..quieter meaning its loud and i need earplugs like ALL of India but I dont hear thumping techno all night..
went to chappora last night which is a town i used to hang out in 28 years ago...it still has the same vibe of chillum smokers, eurodrunks and wanna be junkies a bit surly....if you are looking for the guy who stole money from you 15 years ago and dissapeard and if he stole less then $3,000 then most likely he is in chappora. . I went there to get a motorcycle and a souvlaki....
now i got my bike and i am mobile...
Now Sal and me are having our morning coffee on the porch and I am about to cut the papaya and pineapple...rough life....of course i did spend 15 minutes mind fucking about taxes this morning...
here are some pics of my little house and my new cat...

Saturday, December 9, 2006

day 3.5










bangkok for 2 days was like 1/2 a day because of the rag..but just the warmth and the food and being alone was great...i hung out with a war photographer from amnesty international and a real estate guy named leon from oroville,ca and Drew( a guy i think i met before)..meeting strangers and connecting and laughing together is for me really rejuvenating.

sat morn i got a airport van and headed to the new airport..they have strange rules for the transport vans so to avid a fee of some kind he took us thru a maze of garages and then opend the door and grunted...i had no idea where i was but around a corner and everything was fine...very nice new place with helpful english speaking people there to guide you...i checked in my luggage to Indian airlines and then i went to find some food..i had heard that there was a place in the basement where the staff/workers ate so i went to find it...no problem i was the only westerner there and it was lined with 20 different food stalls with local prices and i spent 30 minutes looking ateverything before deciding which...fucking great food..had crsipy pork over rice w/ a nice sweet sauce with a a bit of soup for 50 baht..$1.35..I would have paid $13 for this in the west and it wouldnt have tasted as good...
i wish marin at a place like this..i would live there..breakfast /lunch and dinner...
here are some pictures of the choices...

then off to mumbai on a old airbus of dubious safety..i have a basic problem is that i listen to the plane like im listening to a quality used car rental and this is not good..any non consisitent noise or rattle or bang and im praying....but i gave up after a while and settled in to some excellent chicken tikka and some freindly hindudes...
my name was waiting at the arrival hall and off we went to a hellish in construction windowless nightmare of a disgusting hole in the wall hell of a shithole. slept 5 hours and turned on the tv to 95 channels of 99 guru's and exercize machine sellars in 12 dialects of scandal news and some wonderfully old indian movies with great msuic. there is so much disenfectant/moth balls/bug spray in here that i dont have to worry about anything living in here at all..if i stayed 2 days i also would not be alive...but im off to goa in the morning......

me with jet rag

Friday, December 8, 2006

day 2 bangkok

i just ate a locust.
Dont ask...
cooked in garlic...
ick

Tuesday, December 5, 2006

Day one..

This is my first blog entry.
Now I need a break.
Back to the couch.